Saturday, October 2, 2010

COMATOSE COSSACK


We awoke this morning to the sound of whales! The entire bay in fact had been transformed into a land of magic and mystery. Everything was so still, not a breath of wind rustled the leaves and not a ripple appeared on the surface of the water. Except that is, for the splashing of the great flippers as the frolicking giants slapped the crystal clear waters of the cove. Several of the gentle giants had found their way into our little corner of the world and were lazily playing in the sheltered waters. We could clearly hear, across the bay the whooshing of air being expelled as they surfaced and the slapping of their huge tails on the water.
The sky was a clear ice blue and was reflected so perfectly in the still waters that the horizon all but disappeared and the distant islands and ships appeared suspended in thin air. The water almost disappeared and it seemed we were perched on the very edge of the world looking across at a mysterious fantasy land that beckoned across the empty abyss.
Between us and these seemingly unattainable shores the whales played. Only when they moved could you see any evidence of ripples or water. Incredibly, thin spouts of water sprayed heaven-wards, the sound reaching we mere mortals on the shore seconds later. Time seemed suspended as we all stood in various states of awe watching the wonders of the natural world unfold before us.
I truly believe in Magic. Magic is to be found everywhere if we but look, but today we were blessed as mother nature tapped us on the shoulder and bade us to literally wake up and see the glory of the world we live in. A truly wonderful start to a Sunday morning.
Well, on a more mundane level, we took bus tour called ‘Port to Port’ – it took us out to Cape Lambert where Rio Tinto has an Iron Ore loading facility, and then across the way to the historical town of Cossack. Our driver, Nigel, was about as ocker as they come and gave us a broad and very down to earth commentary as we went. The Iron Ore facility seemed huge to me, and yet they are now in the early stages of increasing the size substantially. The growth in this region is incredible and they will be looking for literally thousands of people to work here as the industry expands. Being female, I confess to only listening with half an ear to all the technical information we were bombarded with regarding the machinery and plant, suffice to say it all looked quite incredible – I was more fascinated to see that right up against the loading wharf/jetty a mother whale and her calf were cruising the blue waters. It was reassuring to see the magnificent creatures so at home amongst our man-made structures. This is a busy port, loading ship after ship with the valuable iron ore product. It was a somewhat heart-rending to see so much natural beauty being diminished by mans’ hand, but I do understand that progress will and must happen. This place is vast and surely with careful management we can manage both the economic and natural resources in a sensible and productive manner. I have never been one for over-government, but in this instance I can see the need for constant vigilance to ensure that the ‘right thing’ is done.
From Cape Lambert we crossed to Cossack – some of the old buildings of this historic pearling town have been lovingly restored and are quite stunning. The buildings were all made from local rock (as they probably still should be) and have an intrinsic beauty. Certainly they are substantial buildings and apart from their roofs I suspect they are more or less cyclone proof. Cossack was all but destroyed by cyclones twice during its colourful life. The town, which had a high Asian occupancy, was originally a pearling town, the first in this region in fact, preceding Broome. Once Broome became established in pearling, Cossack turned to Turtle Soup – this industry, fortunately also failed – after that the town just pretty much lay down and died. It is a very pretty little spot, but we are told very prone to flooding during the cyclone season. A mangrove lined river/inlet wends its way along the road and the fishing there, both fin and shell, is said to be very good. I have already touched on the aboriginal slavery attached to both farming and pearling, so I won’t go there again this time. I found it very sobering however, to consider all the thousands of people who lived in the once thriving little town and how they have now all disappeared beneath the inimitable sands of time. All the hopes, dreams, loves and passions of those very real people, now not even memories, only certainties of times past. Humbling thoughts that remind us of just how transient our time here is.
On a personal note, thanks to our lovely musical friends Hank and Yvonne, I had my first public reading last night. I selected “Up to Mud” for the occasion and must say it was well received, albeit to a very small and probably slightly inebriated group of fellow travellers. Nevertheless, it was a small hurdle for me and I am grateful for the opportunity. Interestingly, the ladies seemed to identify with my sad plight (as related in the poem) and poor old Doug received several biting comments from the female members of the audience afterwards. In his own inimitable and wonderful way, he deflected all the little stings and took the whole thing in very good humour. He really is a beaut bloke you know.
Well, you will be amazed to see that is it for this time. I know! Super short! We are here until next Thursday and that will take us thru’ the bulk of the school holidays. From here we intend to move to Onslow and then on down the coast, homewards bound.
The caravan park we are staying at is The Cove Caravan Park and we have found it to be excellent. Dogs are welcome here and we are enjoying meeting some of these four footed travellers. The park is privately owned and run and is a credit to the owners. We do recommend booking during peak season tho’ as we believe they have to send people away in their droves. Just an added commendation is that we have not talked to anyone yet who hasn’t extended their stay here!
For now, look for the magic and live lovingly. Stephanie.

No comments: