Iced Grass Leads Down to The Chilly Meander River |
Well, here we are again – most will know by now that I have been
having a major tussle with my laptop.
Brother, what a Bother! Just in
case anyone out there is having any sort of similar problems I thought I would
just touch on this. We had very poor
reception at the Caravan Park in Deloraine and firstly I thought that was the
problem. Most of my problems were
associated with being unable to post a blog – the page simply would not accept
my cursor, no matter what I did. Every
so often just to really drive me around the bend, the cursor would obediently
pop onto the page, I would get terribly excited and press my keys only to see
the wretched thing vanish again. There
did seem to be other minor gremlins popping up here and there and in general my
laptop was just behaving in a very odd manner.
Now, I am not quite computer illiterate, but it’s a close thing; I tried
all the things I knew to try, all the housework I know to do on a laptop has
now been done and all the cobwebs brushed away.
Finally in desperation, and in accordance with one recommendation I
found on the blogger site, I downloaded Google Chrome (again – I had just
deleted it a few days earlier) and this time made it my default ‘thingy’ –
voila!!! Everything started to work
again and I might add, in a far superior manner to anything I had previously
experienced. That was a couple of days
ago and despite the fact that most pages now are totally different in
appearance to before and I have had to go on a bit of a re-learning campaign I
am very pleased with Google Chrome and would recommend it to anyone having
similar problems.
So....................did I say in my last blog that DD and I
were becoming a little bored with the Apple Isle? Well, that will teach me! I have so much to tell you that I will have
to split it into several separate sections, the first of which would have to be
:-
That's Ice in the Front of Those Cows! |
DAMN COLD AT DELORAINE
We always knew that it would be fairly chilly when we finally
arrived at Deloraine as it is a little way inland and up close and personal
with a couple of mountains. What we hadn't really appreciated was that there are mountains pretty much on three
sides and all of them at this time of the year have at least a little snow on
them. Hmmmm, well the first morning we
awoke the temp had dropped to around minus 2, the next morning, minus 3 and the
following one, minus 5 or thereabouts, we suspect that perhaps it was even a
tad cooler than that.
Icy Verges Along The Way |
Back home in good old WA we do have some fairly cold nights,
particularly late winter when we get those glorious clear days – on those cold
nights, we do get some frost – BUT.................never have I seen frost like
the frost we found in Deloraine and surrounds.
The ground was white, the grass was frozen and not a few ponds were set
as well. The caravan park sits on the
banks of the Meander River and is beautifully grassed – those mornings it was
decidedly frosted – the grass actually crackled when you walked on it. Zed sparkled with his coating of ice as did
the TV aerial on the van as I gazed through the skylight in wonderment from my
warm cosy bed. The underneath of the
awning was iced and as you opened the door to the van the ice actually impeded
a little, the opening of the door as the top of the door skated across the underside
of the canvas.
Remarkable Icicle |
Our Very Own Ice Sculpture |
When we had a look around behind the van we discovered a
miraculous sight – an icicle around a foot long decorated the tap connecting
the van to the water. This particular
tap had been spraying out a fine jet of water and that water had formed an
intricate and fascinating ice sculpture where it had landed on the lawn. Just to give you a really good idea of what
it was like, that glass sculpture lasted for 5 whole days before finally
melting away – long after DD had fixed the tap.
Incidentally, the pipes from that tap to the van froze solid and simply
refused to defrost until around 9 days later just before we left the park. We managed OK by using the water in the vans
tank. DD simply kept re-filling the tank
and we were fine – fortunately those pipes stayed ice free. It was quite funny as at night our evening
drinks needed no chilling at all – the water from the tap was at least as cold
as any we could have taken from the ‘fridge.
I had problems cleaning my teeth as the water in the pipes was simply
too cold for me to gargle and swish with – I had to resort to boiling the jug
in order to take the chill off the water.
We only have gas hot water in the van and resist the temptation to run
the water heater except for my showers.
As I am from a warmer climate I was enthralled and excited by
the wonderland presented to us – I meandered around that park (alongside the
Meander River) snapping wonderful shots of the ice. I am only sorry that I can only include so
many for you in the blog – there are so many amazing pictures. Not content with the vision in the CP we
drove out of town a little to capture the spectacle of the frosted paddocks
around the pretty town. We capped the
drive off at the Information Centre – there I was captivated once again by the
vision of the Western Tiers, snow capped, on the not too distant horizon. I was even more excited when they told us
that ‘the snow’ was only a 30 minute drive from there. Wow and double Wow – I know I am childish,
but really, WoW!!!
There were, during those chilly days, some amazingly beautiful
vistas around Deloraine – frosted white paddocks, thawing to deep green velvet,
dotted with contented black and white cattle watched over by snow capped
mountains – breathtakingly beautiful.
The sculptured branches of the deciduous trees decorated river banks and
lent touches of burgundy and purple to the lush landscapes. Quaint old farm houses puffed blue smoke into
the blue winter skies, fluffy white and mauve clouds crowded the sky space over
the mountain tops; ducks and black swans glided on serene mirrored lakes and
dams the blue skies and snow capped mountains reflected on the glassy surfaces.
Magical Views |
We were incredibly spoiled and the beauty was overwhelming. We were as warm and cosy as we could have
wished in the van. Our little ceramic
fan heater did us proud, not only warming us but also keeping the condensation
at bay. We only turned the air-con on
once and that was just to bring the temp up quickly – once the air was warm
enough we reverted back to the fan heater.
Our electric blanket did get a good work-out and even yours truly had to
resort to having it on all night a couple of times – something hitherto unheard
of. The floor of the van did get a
little chilly and getting up in the middle of the night for the necessary was a
tad daunting, but not devastating. Even
DD with his dislike of extreme cold, managed quite well and I have to tell you,
those thermals are still in their wrappers!
4 Days Later It Was Still Frozen |
SNOW GLORIOUS SNOW
On The Way To The Top |
The Snow!! We couldn't not go, could we?! I have to say I was
quite amazed by our lad. I had voiced
the wish many times that I wanted to see and experience the snow ‘close up’. I had only once before seen snow and that was
all of 40 odd years ago and it had been a brief and disappointing
experience. I wanted to really see
snow! Our lad however, had hummed and har’d
about that and reminded me that he had indeed experienced snow in his youth,
both while living in the UK and while on holidays in the Eastern States. His memories were of dangerous roads, chains
on vehicles and slippery footpaths – not much romance in our lad!! He had protested long and loud about not
going anywhere near the snow driving the car – so how amazed was I when
overhearing him at the Visitor’s Center discussing with a local fella the best
way to get to the snow? I had
anticipated that we would perhaps drive up to Cradle Mountain to get sort of
close to the white stuff, but our lad had other ideas. The bloke at the Visitor’s Centre had
suggested we take a drive down to The Lakes district as there was plenty of
fresh snow along the way. The roads had
been closed but re-opened that morning – or so we were told. The ladies at the Info center had confirmed
with us that we had a 4WD and although I stressed our inexperience, they
advised that it would be fine.
Cool!!!! So we toddled
off back to the van, packed some light refreshments, dug out the gloves,
mittens, scarves and beanies and off we went.
We had driven from Lake St Clair to The Great Lake earlier in the year
and thought we knew what we were in for – what we hadn't anticipated was having
to cross a mountain range to get to The Great Lake. The Western Tiers sit to the south of
Deloraine and the Great Lake is part of The Tiers. As we drove southward towards the stunning
snow capped mountains we found ourselves gaining more and more altitude – I
don’t know about DD but I had thought the lake was to the side of these
mountains and that we would be sort of driving alongside the range – not the
case – we drove thru’ those mountains!
Snow, ice and all!! I have to say
I would never have believed our lad would be so intrepid. We hit a road sign which indicated that the
road was still closed to all but trucks and 4WD vehicles – at that point I
expected to be disappointed and for DD to turn about in our tracks – I was
flabbergasted to say the least when he read the sign (out loud) and continued
on without blinking an eye-lid. I was so
thrilled, and I have to say, not a little concerned. At that point there was no sign of snow, just
a lot of frost and mud alongside the ever steeper roads. We soon realized were back in mountain
country with steep drops off the side of the road and heavily forested bush. Then, oh the excitement, a blob of snow by
the side of the road and then a few more blobs, and then more. We were excited but had resigned ourselves by
then to only seeing the odd blob here and there, when suddenly the whole
landscape changed and there was snow everywhere. The entire landscape was snow-clad to varying
different degrees.
Iced Road |
As we drove yet
higher, the drifts alongside the road became deeper and it became apparent that
there had been no snow plough along the road for some time. Hmmm, now there was ice on the road and then
heaps of ice on the road. We stopped at
one small cleared spot to get out and take a few photos. DD was super concerned about me falling – I
have to admit to being a klutz at the best of times and to having very poor
balance – not to speak of crook knees and oh several hundred kilos of excess
weight – he wouldn't let me walk around a great deal – of course, sneakers are
not the right footwear either. While we
were snapping away, a car drove past at what was obviously excess speed for the
very dangerous conditions. After we had
jumped back into Zed and driven around another couple of hairy scary bends, we
found that car straddling the road at a very strange angle as he had obviously
skidded badly on the icy surface. Bloody
idiot had a car full of kids too!! Some
people don’t deserve to be parents I think.
The Sign Says It All |
We continued on very, very cautiously – as you will see from the
photos we had good cause for caution. No
chains, just lots of care – DD was so brave and so very competent – I was very
proud and very grateful for the incredible scenery which was unfolding around
us. We drove through several tiny towns
which cling to the side of the Great Lake, one of which was Liawenee – the
place which registered a 12 below that very morning!
It was amazing, the shacks and houses had large drifts of snow on their
roofs, drifts up against the outside walls and icicles hanging from the eaves –
sensational.
Looking Down To The Great Lake |
Our New Home?? |
In the middle of all this
was the Lake – frozen in parts along the edge, but reflecting the blue sky for
the most part. For all his bravery, DD wouldn't stop at the local pub for a hot chocolate just in case the weather
came in again. I have to say, I was in
complete agreement – by now it was after 1pm and as we have become accustomed
to the sun starting to wane at around 2.30 we had no desire to be trapped on
that road in poor visibility. It did try
to snow on us once, but it was fleeting and didn't amount to anything. Now that I have seen what iced up roads look
like, I think I am now cured of wishing to drive around while it is snowing.
Winter I Think! |
Amazing |
The snowfields continued all around the lake and the ‘snow
scapes’ were pristine and beautiful. We
managed to extricate ourselves from the icy roads eventually and drove home
through green and lush pastures and small rural towns with feelings of both
relief and serenity. The whole
experience, for me at least had not a small quotient of surrealism and it is
one that I hope I never forget. I am
after all a simple child and pleasured by simple things.
Simply Stunning |
CRISP IN THE CRADLE
A Baby Wombat Who Crossed Our Path
Frosted Tree Ferns
Have I ever told what a beaut bloke I am married too? He is a champion from time to time – I
thought that having travelled thru’ icy roads the day before, the last thing my
hero would be prepared to do was go once again into the fray, but dear friends,
I was wrong. The very next morning we
packed yet another snack, retrieved our gloves and mittens and sallied forth
once more. This time, we took the long
and winding road back to Cradle Mountain.
I was keen to take some photos of a snow clad Cradle to compare with the
summer shots I had taken earlier in the year.
We travelled through frosted fields out through Mole Creek and upwards
ever upwards towards the Cradle Mountain.
The roads were exceedingly steep and winding but the snow line was, or
at least seemed to be, much higher than in the Western Tiers. Along the way the frost was quite thick and
there were many spots where it obviously stays frozen for much of the winter as
the sun doesn't penetrate into the depths of some of the valleys. I spotted a frosted tree fern which I thought epitomized the contrast of the area we were travelling through.
We, it seemed took the long road, one we had not previously travelled and finally found ourselves at the entrance to Cradle Mountain. By now, we were back in snow covered terrain,
albeit nowhere as severe as the previous day.
DD was right – did you get that?
Yes, DD was indeed right when he expressed a concern that it would be
busy up at the mountain due to the school holidays – I was wrong in my belief
that kids would gravitate more to areas where they could actually ‘play’ in the
snow. The Mountain was packed and there
was quite a queue at the boom gate which grants entry to the park proper. Now of course, there is a big bold sign
telling everyone they are not to queue at the boom gates, regardless of this,
we were, along with everyone else, ‘queued’!
When we arrived there we were blessed with a beautiful blue sky – it
augured well for the photo shots – we waited and waited at those boom gates and
while we waited, the clouds came in, and came in.
Nature's Sculpture |
The gates it seemed were stuck and we were stuck too, with cars
both in front and behind us. I did
suggest that perhaps the front car might just be parked a little close to the
gates and tried to persuade the lad to go and suggest they moved said car back
a little, but of course, I am just a simple woman and would have no concept of
these blokey and mechanical realms, so we all sat and waited in our forbidden
queue – until, oh, what is that you say?
The front car was advised by someone of some little knowledge, that they
should back their car up a little – lo and behold, the boom lifted! Who would have thunk it!! Oh well, at least we were in – needless to
say the park was busy and the road which takes only one vehicle comfortably was
a little exciting as we had to pull over several times onto very uncertain
footings (covered by snow) to allow vehicles to pass in the opposite
direction. The uncertainty of the ground
was made more so by the random appearance of a semi frozen stream running right
alongside the road.
Add caption |
We did finally arrive safely at Dove Lake but sadly the ground
was so icy from all the people who had been tramping around, DD simply refused
to allow me to wander around at all to get my shots. He did take a couple for me so all was not in
vain. I did take a couple but couldn't get to the best vantage spots, but all was not in vain, we did get some
reasonable photos.
We took a different route back to the caravan park, skimming
Sheffield and passing once again thru’ picturesque rural countryside.
LAUDABLE LAUNCESTON
Looking Up The Gorge From The Chairlift |
For the first few days we had glorious if cold weather whilst in
Deloraine, but the fourth day dawned a little sullen and clouds were
threatening to wash away our ice sculpture.
We thought this was a good opportunity to meander across country to
visit Launceston some 4o or so kilometres from our park. We had driven thru’ this pretty city on the
way across to Deloraine but as we had the van in tow, had not stopped to
explore. Sadly when we arrived there
this time, the entire city was shrouded in smoke. DD was told by some woman he accosted
somewhere along the way (no, don’t ask me) that this is a common problem in
Launceston and is caused by ‘cloud inversion’ – a situation caused by cloud
cover over the top of the valley prohibiting the escape of the smoke drifting
from factories and hundreds of household chimneys.
Chair-lift |
One of our main objectives was to visit Cataract Gorge –
Launceston’s most famous landmark. We
were about 2 months too early to get the best impression of the park
there. It is just jam packed with
Azaleas and Rhododendrons and is, I am told, an absolute picture in the spring
when these glorious plants are in bloom.
The smoke haze did nothing to enhance the scenery at the gorge and the
air was to say the least, chilly.
Nevertheless, we braved the elements and took the fairly long chair lift
across the gorge – on a better day it would have been exceptional, on this
particular day, it was OK – as you will see from the photos. Some of the water to the sides of the river
there was frozen, just to give you an idea of the low temperatures.
Launceston itself is, to my way of thinking, a very pretty town
– I like its quaint old buildings and steep and winding streets. The city centre itself, reminds me a great
deal of Perth back in the 60s – old buildings and ornate fascias make for a
pleasant ambiance. We drove around the
city for some time, drinking in the different scenes and admiring the old
buildings. Eventually we drove south
towards the towns of Evandale and Longford.
The countryside here was not as attractive as that around Deloraine and
was perhaps a little ho hum, except for the looming snow capped shapes of Ben
Lomond to the east. This is the only
major spot we have missed on our travels, the snow-fields at Ben Lomond, but we
comfort ourselves in the belief that you just cannot see everything, and we
have seen sufficient snow for our needs.
Other Side of The Gorge |
The towns of Evandale and Longford were both historical and
attractive – we could see much to recommend both and would we felt have been
happy to live there. The historical
aspect particularly was very strong.
While we were in that area, we took a drive
thru................Perth! This of
course was a ‘must do’ while we were in Tassie – what a letdown!! This had to be one of the most uninteresting and
uninspiring towns we have seen here. It simply had nothing going for it – the
surrounding countryside was just OK (by Tassie standards) and the town itself
had no real appeal. Oh well, nothing
could have compared with our home town anyway!
DELUGE AT DELORAINE
The River Rising - Right Next To The Van |
I mentioned that the weather was promising to get a little
dirty, well it certainly did that. We
had pretty much decided to stay until the following Wednesday so to split our
remaining time pretty much in half, half at Deloraine and half at Port Sorell
(our next and last Tassie stop). While
we were in Deloraine, I spotted an advertisement for the weekly Steak Night at
the local RSL – complete this week with life Country and Western music. I talked DD into this little diversion (he
was a bit bleak there for a couple of days) and booked us a table for the night
at the enormous cost of $16 per head for a steak dinner and music – hard to go
wrong there! As the RSL was at the top
of a fairly steep hill, DD dropped me off, took the car back to the park and
walked back – we walked home afterwards.
I went in alone and my first realisation was that we were the youngest
folk there, so far – and it seemed that pretty much everyone was there, who
were going to be there. Hmmm – oh well,
I advised the bloke taking the money that my husband would ‘sort him out’ when
he arrived – that seemed to take him back a bit – perhaps I should have worded
that a little differently! In due
course, my hero arrived and did duly ‘sort out’ the bloke taking the
money. We had a rather large table to
ourselves initially, but were joined in due course by the other ‘newies’ in
town – a couple in their 50s who had purchased a property out at Golden Valley,
had moved in 4 weeks ago and were well on the way to establishing a new truffle
farm – he was Rhodesian and she an Aussie from Newcastle – they were an
interesting couple and it was good to hear about their new endeavour.
First of The Huge Silk Wall Hangings |
In good time we were served with our steak and encouraged to
stray to the centre table which was groaning with good tucker provided by the
hardworking wives of the RSL members.
The steak was just OK but you certainly couldn't complain about either
the price or the quantity of food. We
were pleasantly surprised after the steak to be handed a bowl of Apple crumble,
ice-cream and cream as well – marvelous.
After the tucker was cleared away, the three man group started
to play, what a step back in time. It
was quite good country music and they started with a set of waltzes. There were only 3 couples all night who took
to the floor – two of which had obviously been taking dance lessons. They were all somewhere around our
vintage. It was lovely to watch – one
fella, short and rotund, really enjoyed his dancing, and it was a laugh to see
the old ‘pump’ going with his hand outstretched with hers enfolded and pumping
in time to the music. The other bloke, I
think may have had a back problem (probably a farmer) and danced as tho’ he had
the proverbial poker appropriately placed – he still seemed to enjoy himself
however. It was sad to note that these
two couples, despite their many forays to the floor, did not once look into
their partner’s eyes – so sad – obviously bin’ married a whole heap of
years. These two couples were mates and
shared a table, the other couple were, I suspect, outsiders – scandalously, she
actually had dressed up for the night and they swung around the floor in a most
relaxed manner, ignoring the other dancers and gazing into each other’s eyes,
and even occasionally smiling at each other – definitely not ‘the thing’ I
suspect.
I came to a rather sad realisation looking around the room that
evening – I don’t think I would fit into Deloraine (or probably any other
Tassie country town) very well – these ladies all looked to be rather dour – I
suspect never to say ‘shit’ for ‘sugar’ as the saying goes, or to dress
flamboyantly or do anything else which wasn't proscribed behaviour for well behaved
ladies – no, I don’t think I would fit in very well at all. Oh well..........another pipe dream!!
Deloraine itself, incidentally is a most impressive town –
lovely old buildings, wonderful scenery, much of it overlooking the Western
Tiers, snow-capped at this time of the year at least and an abundance of
‘Arty-Crafty’ shops and studios. The
Information Centre sports an amazing display called “Yarns Artwork in Silk” –
this is an incredible set of 4 huge wall hangings made of silks and other
fabrics. It took many years for the
talented local ladies to complete. It depicts the four seasons of the Meander
Valley – I will include photos of the hangings and I’m sure you will agree they
are wonderful. The Centre also includes
a very good museum, incorporating an old farmhouse etc. I have to say, we are pretty much ‘over’ the
little museums as we have seen so many and they are all essentially much the
same. This one was good as these things
go and as it was included in the $6 fee to view the wall hangings, we enjoyed
an informative stroll around the place.
The weather that had been threatening came in, in force and the
rain it came down. It came down and it
came down – as we were sitting right on the banks of the river we were a little
concerned, but decided to keep a ‘weather’ eye on things and be prepared to
move should the need arise. We went to
bed on I think it was the Saturday night and during the night when I visited
the ladies room at the end of the van, I thought I heard an unusual noise. At first I thought that Dastardly Douglas had
sneakily put the heater on during the night – something I abhor unless it is
really necessary, but on checking the heater found it to be turned off. I mentioned the noise to DD when I returned
to bed, but as he couldn't hear it, he discounted it as ‘foolish’ and we both
went straight back to sleep.
On waking the next morning, and leaving the van to visit the
little house, DD discovered just what I had heard during the night – the
river!! It had risen quite considerably
from the previous day – what I had heard during the night was the river roaring
past the van. Hmm, well DD put in his
own little measuring device and we started to ‘really’ watch the rising waters. They continued to rise. DD went and visited the people over the road
who take the money for the park – they advised him that yes, the river did
flood quite frequently, but had been limited of late since a dam had been built
upstream. They also told him that usually
they would get around 10 hours warning should flooding be imminent. OK – now we felt a little better. The bloke at the Visitor’s Centre told us
however that there could be a 50/50 chance of the river flooding. I should say here that the river was to my
mind, already flooding, having broken its banks in a few places within the
park. It was quite alarming to stand
beside the river (with our ducky mates) and watch large logs sweep past on the
very fast current. The waters were brown
and swirling ever closer to the rear of Jezabelle. We had the car all but hitched up just in
case we had to evacuate during the night – fortunately tho’, according to DD’s
little measuring stick, there were signs before nightfall of a slight reduction
in the height of the water. At least we
were able to get some sleep, although I think both of us had a slightly
restless night.
The morning light showed that the waters had not encroached
further and we were able to enjoy our last day and night there with some degree
of relaxation. I mentioned our ducky
mates; they adopted us on day one, deciding that we were good for a bit of
tucker from time to time. This is the
first time I have had experience of Muscovy Ducks – have to say they are
enormous ducks and very pushy in the bargain.
Well, it’s been a bit of a marathon, I’m sorry about that, but I
did have a lot of ground to cover this time and not a little bit of catch up
too. Until next time when I talk to you
from Port Sorell, stay safe, stay friends and stay happy. Remember life can be just ducky and being
mean can lead to a quack up – sorry!! Stephanie.
Raging Meander - The Old Power Station |