DAZZLING DELORAINE

Iced Grass Leads Down to The Chilly Meander River

 Well, here we are again – most will know by now that I have been having a major tussle with my laptop.  Brother, what a Bother!  Just in case anyone out there is having any sort of similar problems I thought I would just touch on this.  We had very poor reception at the Caravan Park in Deloraine and firstly I thought that was the problem.  Most of my problems were associated with being unable to post a blog – the page simply would not accept my cursor, no matter what I did.  Every so often just to really drive me around the bend, the cursor would obediently pop onto the page, I would get terribly excited and press my keys only to see the wretched thing vanish again.  There did seem to be other minor gremlins popping up here and there and in general my laptop was just behaving in a very odd manner.  Now, I am not quite computer illiterate, but it’s a close thing; I tried all the things I knew to try, all the housework I know to do on a laptop has now been done and all the cobwebs brushed away.  Finally in desperation, and in accordance with one recommendation I found on the blogger site, I downloaded Google Chrome (again – I had just deleted it a few days earlier) and this time made it my default ‘thingy’ – voila!!!  Everything started to work again and I might add, in a far superior manner to anything I had previously experienced.  That was a couple of days ago and despite the fact that most pages now are totally different in appearance to before and I have had to go on a bit of a re-learning campaign I am very pleased with Google Chrome and would recommend it to anyone having similar problems.

So....................did I say in my last blog that DD and I were becoming a little bored with the Apple Isle?  Well, that will teach me!  I have so much to tell you that I will have to split it into several separate sections, the first of which would have to be :-

That's Ice in the Front of Those Cows!

DAMN COLD AT DELORAINE

We always knew that it would be fairly chilly when we finally arrived at Deloraine as it is a little way inland and up close and personal with a couple of mountains.  What we hadn't really appreciated was that there are mountains pretty much on three sides and all of them at this time of the year have at least a little snow on them.  Hmmmm, well the first morning we awoke the temp had dropped to around minus 2, the next morning, minus 3 and the following one, minus 5 or thereabouts, we suspect that perhaps it was even a tad cooler than that.

Icy Verges Along The Way

Back home in good old WA we do have some fairly cold nights, particularly late winter when we get those glorious clear days – on those cold nights, we do get some frost – BUT.................never have I seen frost like the frost we found in Deloraine and surrounds.  The ground was white, the grass was frozen and not a few ponds were set as well.  The caravan park sits on the banks of the Meander River and is beautifully grassed – those mornings it was decidedly frosted – the grass actually crackled when you walked on it.  Zed sparkled with his coating of ice as did the TV aerial on the van as I gazed through the skylight in wonderment from my warm cosy bed.  The underneath of the awning was iced and as you opened the door to the van the ice actually impeded a little, the opening of the door as the top of the door skated across the underside of the canvas.

Remarkable Icicle

Our Very Own Ice Sculpture

When we had a look around behind the van we discovered a miraculous sight – an icicle around a foot long decorated the tap connecting the van to the water.  This particular tap had been spraying out a fine jet of water and that water had formed an intricate and fascinating ice sculpture where it had landed on the lawn.  Just to give you a really good idea of what it was like, that glass sculpture lasted for 5 whole days before finally melting away – long after DD had fixed the tap.  Incidentally, the pipes from that tap to the van froze solid and simply refused to defrost until around 9 days later just before we left the park.  We managed OK by using the water in the vans tank.  DD simply kept re-filling the tank and we were fine – fortunately those pipes stayed ice free.  It was quite funny as at night our evening drinks needed no chilling at all – the water from the tap was at least as cold as any we could have taken from the ‘fridge.  I had problems cleaning my teeth as the water in the pipes was simply too cold for me to gargle and swish with – I had to resort to boiling the jug in order to take the chill off the water.  We only have gas hot water in the van and resist the temptation to run the water heater except for my showers.

As I am from a warmer climate I was enthralled and excited by the wonderland presented to us – I meandered around that park (alongside the Meander River) snapping wonderful shots of the ice.  I am only sorry that I can only include so many for you in the blog – there are so many amazing pictures.  Not content with the vision in the CP we drove out of town a little to capture the spectacle of the frosted paddocks around the pretty town.  We capped the drive off at the Information Centre – there I was captivated once again by the vision of the Western Tiers, snow capped, on the not too distant horizon.  I was even more excited when they told us that ‘the snow’ was only a 30 minute drive from there.  Wow and double Wow – I know I am childish, but really, WoW!!!

There were, during those chilly days, some amazingly beautiful vistas around Deloraine – frosted white paddocks, thawing to deep green velvet, dotted with contented black and white cattle watched over by snow capped mountains – breathtakingly beautiful.  The sculptured branches of the deciduous trees decorated river banks and lent touches of burgundy and purple to the lush landscapes.  Quaint old farm houses puffed blue smoke into the blue winter skies, fluffy white and mauve clouds crowded the sky space over the mountain tops; ducks and black swans glided on serene mirrored lakes and dams the blue skies and snow capped mountains reflected on the glassy surfaces.

Magical Views

We were incredibly spoiled and the beauty was overwhelming.  We were as warm and cosy as we could have wished in the van.  Our little ceramic fan heater did us proud, not only warming us but also keeping the condensation at bay.  We only turned the air-con on once and that was just to bring the temp up quickly – once the air was warm enough we reverted back to the fan heater.  Our electric blanket did get a good work-out and even yours truly had to resort to having it on all night a couple of times – something hitherto unheard of.  The floor of the van did get a little chilly and getting up in the middle of the night for the necessary was a tad daunting, but not devastating.  Even DD with his dislike of extreme cold, managed quite well and I have to tell you, those thermals are still in their wrappers!

4 Days Later It Was Still Frozen

SNOW GLORIOUS SNOW

On The Way To The Top

The Snow!!  We couldn't not go, could we?!  I have to say I was quite amazed by our lad.  I had voiced the wish many times that I wanted to see and experience the snow ‘close up’.  I had only once before seen snow and that was all of 40 odd years ago and it had been a brief and disappointing experience.  I wanted to really see snow!  Our lad however, had hummed and har’d about that and reminded me that he had indeed experienced snow in his youth, both while living in the UK and while on holidays in the Eastern States.  His memories were of dangerous roads, chains on vehicles and slippery footpaths – not much romance in our lad!!  He had protested long and loud about not going anywhere near the snow driving the car – so how amazed was I when overhearing him at the Visitor’s Center discussing with a local fella the best way to get to the snow?  I had anticipated that we would perhaps drive up to Cradle Mountain to get sort of close to the white stuff, but our lad had other ideas.  The bloke at the Visitor’s Centre had suggested we take a drive down to The Lakes district as there was plenty of fresh snow along the way.  The roads had been closed but re-opened that morning – or so we were told.  The ladies at the Info center had confirmed with us that we had a 4WD and although I stressed our inexperience, they advised that it would be fine.

Cool!!!!  So we toddled off back to the van, packed some light refreshments, dug out the gloves, mittens, scarves and beanies and off we went.  We had driven from Lake St Clair to The Great Lake earlier in the year and thought we knew what we were in for – what we hadn't anticipated was having to cross a mountain range to get to The Great Lake.  The Western Tiers sit to the south of Deloraine and the Great Lake is part of The Tiers.  As we drove southward towards the stunning snow capped mountains we found ourselves gaining more and more altitude – I don’t know about DD but I had thought the lake was to the side of these mountains and that we would be sort of driving alongside the range – not the case – we drove thru’ those mountains!  Snow, ice and all!!  I have to say I would never have believed our lad would be so intrepid.  We hit a road sign which indicated that the road was still closed to all but trucks and 4WD vehicles – at that point I expected to be disappointed and for DD to turn about in our tracks – I was flabbergasted to say the least when he read the sign (out loud) and continued on without blinking an eye-lid.  I was so thrilled, and I have to say, not a little concerned.  At that point there was no sign of snow, just a lot of frost and mud alongside the ever steeper roads.  We soon realized were back in mountain country with steep drops off the side of the road and heavily forested bush.  Then, oh the excitement, a blob of snow by the side of the road and then a few more blobs, and then more.  We were excited but had resigned ourselves by then to only seeing the odd blob here and there, when suddenly the whole landscape changed and there was snow everywhere.  The entire landscape was snow-clad to varying different degrees. 

Iced Road

As we drove yet higher, the drifts alongside the road became deeper and it became apparent that there had been no snow plough along the road for some time.  Hmmm, now there was ice on the road and then heaps of ice on the road.  We stopped at one small cleared spot to get out and take a few photos.  DD was super concerned about me falling – I have to admit to being a klutz at the best of times and to having very poor balance – not to speak of crook knees and oh several hundred kilos of excess weight – he wouldn't let me walk around a great deal – of course, sneakers are not the right footwear either.  While we were snapping away, a car drove past at what was obviously excess speed for the very dangerous conditions.  After we had jumped back into Zed and driven around another couple of hairy scary bends, we found that car straddling the road at a very strange angle as he had obviously skidded badly on the icy surface.  Bloody idiot had a car full of kids too!!  Some people don’t deserve to be parents I think. 

The Sign Says It All

We continued on very, very cautiously – as you will see from the photos we had good cause for caution.  No chains, just lots of care – DD was so brave and so very competent – I was very proud and very grateful for the incredible scenery which was unfolding around us.  We drove through several tiny towns which cling to the side of the Great Lake, one of which was Liawenee – the place which registered a 12 below that very morning!  It was amazing, the shacks and houses had large drifts of snow on their roofs, drifts up against the outside walls and icicles hanging from the eaves – sensational.  

Looking Down To The Great Lake

Our New Home??

In the middle of all this was the Lake – frozen in parts along the edge, but reflecting the blue sky for the most part.  For all his bravery, DD wouldn't stop at the local pub for a hot chocolate just in case the weather came in again.  I have to say, I was in complete agreement – by now it was after 1pm and as we have become accustomed to the sun starting to wane at around 2.30 we had no desire to be trapped on that road in poor visibility.  It did try to snow on us once, but it was fleeting and didn't amount to anything.  Now that I have seen what iced up roads look like, I think I am now cured of wishing to drive around while it is snowing.

Winter I Think!

Amazing

The snowfields continued all around the lake and the ‘snow scapes’ were pristine and beautiful.  We managed to extricate ourselves from the icy roads eventually and drove home through green and lush pastures and small rural towns with feelings of both relief and serenity.  The whole experience, for me at least had not a small quotient of surrealism and it is one that I hope I never forget.  I am after all a simple child and pleasured by simple things.

Simply Stunning

CRISP IN THE CRADLE

A Baby Wombat Who Crossed Our Path

Frosted Tree Ferns

Have I ever told what a beaut bloke I am married too?  He is a champion from time to time – I thought that having travelled thru’ icy roads the day before, the last thing my hero would be prepared to do was go once again into the fray, but dear friends, I was wrong.  The very next morning we packed yet another snack, retrieved our gloves and mittens and sallied forth once more.  This time, we took the long and winding road back to Cradle Mountain.  I was keen to take some photos of a snow clad Cradle to compare with the summer shots I had taken earlier in the year.  We travelled through frosted fields out through Mole Creek and upwards ever upwards towards the Cradle Mountain.  The roads were exceedingly steep and winding but the snow line was, or at least seemed to be, much higher than in the Western Tiers.  Along the way the frost was quite thick and there were many spots where it obviously stays frozen for much of the winter as the sun doesn't penetrate into the depths of some of the valleys.  I spotted a frosted tree fern which I thought epitomized the contrast of the area we were travelling through.

We, it seemed took the long road, one we had not previously travelled and finally found ourselves at the entrance to Cradle Mountain.  By now, we were back in snow covered terrain, albeit nowhere as severe as the previous day.  DD was right – did you get that?  Yes, DD was indeed right when he expressed a concern that it would be busy up at the mountain due to the school holidays – I was wrong in my belief that kids would gravitate more to areas where they could actually ‘play’ in the snow.  The Mountain was packed and there was quite a queue at the boom gate which grants entry to the park proper.  Now of course, there is a big bold sign telling everyone they are not to queue at the boom gates, regardless of this, we were, along with everyone else, ‘queued’!  When we arrived there we were blessed with a beautiful blue sky – it augured well for the photo shots – we waited and waited at those boom gates and while we waited, the clouds came in, and came in.

Nature's Sculpture

The gates it seemed were stuck and we were stuck too, with cars both in front and behind us.  I did suggest that perhaps the front car might just be parked a little close to the gates and tried to persuade the lad to go and suggest they moved said car back a little, but of course, I am just a simple woman and would have no concept of these blokey and mechanical realms, so we all sat and waited in our forbidden queue – until, oh, what is that you say?  The front car was advised by someone of some little knowledge, that they should back their car up a little – lo and behold, the boom lifted!  Who would have thunk it!!  Oh well, at least we were in – needless to say the park was busy and the road which takes only one vehicle comfortably was a little exciting as we had to pull over several times onto very uncertain footings (covered by snow) to allow vehicles to pass in the opposite direction.  The uncertainty of the ground was made more so by the random appearance of a semi frozen stream running right alongside the road.

Add caption

 

We did finally arrive safely at Dove Lake but sadly the ground was so icy from all the people who had been tramping around, DD simply refused to allow me to wander around at all to get my shots.  He did take a couple for me so all was not in vain.  I did take a couple but couldn't get to the best vantage spots, but all was not in vain, we did get some reasonable photos.

We took a different route back to the caravan park, skimming Sheffield and passing once again thru’ picturesque rural countryside.

LAUDABLE LAUNCESTON

Looking Up The Gorge From The Chairlift

For the first few days we had glorious if cold weather whilst in Deloraine, but the fourth day dawned a little sullen and clouds were threatening to wash away our ice sculpture.  We thought this was a good opportunity to meander across country to visit Launceston some 4o or so kilometres from our park.  We had driven thru’ this pretty city on the way across to Deloraine but as we had the van in tow, had not stopped to explore.  Sadly when we arrived there this time, the entire city was shrouded in smoke.  DD was told by some woman he accosted somewhere along the way (no, don’t ask me) that this is a common problem in Launceston and is caused by ‘cloud inversion’ – a situation caused by cloud cover over the top of the valley prohibiting the escape of the smoke drifting from factories and hundreds of household chimneys. 

Chair-lift

One of our main objectives was to visit Cataract Gorge – Launceston’s most famous landmark.  We were about 2 months too early to get the best impression of the park there.  It is just jam packed with Azaleas and Rhododendrons and is, I am told, an absolute picture in the spring when these glorious plants are in bloom.  The smoke haze did nothing to enhance the scenery at the gorge and the air was to say the least, chilly.  Nevertheless, we braved the elements and took the fairly long chair lift across the gorge – on a better day it would have been exceptional, on this particular day, it was OK – as you will see from the photos.  Some of the water to the sides of the river there was frozen, just to give you an idea of the low temperatures.

Launceston itself is, to my way of thinking, a very pretty town – I like its quaint old buildings and steep and winding streets.  The city centre itself, reminds me a great deal of Perth back in the 60s – old buildings and ornate fascias make for a pleasant ambiance.  We drove around the city for some time, drinking in the different scenes and admiring the old buildings.  Eventually we drove south towards the towns of Evandale and Longford.  The countryside here was not as attractive as that around Deloraine and was perhaps a little ho hum, except for the looming snow capped shapes of Ben Lomond to the east.  This is the only major spot we have missed on our travels, the snow-fields at Ben Lomond, but we comfort ourselves in the belief that you just cannot see everything, and we have seen sufficient snow for our needs.

Other Side of The Gorge

The towns of Evandale and Longford were both historical and attractive – we could see much to recommend both and would we felt have been happy to live there.  The historical aspect particularly was very strong.  While we were in that area, we took a drive thru................Perth!  This of course was a ‘must do’ while we were in Tassie – what a letdown!!  This had to be one of the most uninteresting and uninspiring towns we have seen here. It simply had nothing going for it – the surrounding countryside was just OK (by Tassie standards) and the town itself had no real appeal.  Oh well, nothing could have compared with our home town anyway!

DELUGE AT DELORAINE

The River Rising - Right Next To The Van

I mentioned that the weather was promising to get a little dirty, well it certainly did that.  We had pretty much decided to stay until the following Wednesday so to split our remaining time pretty much in half, half at Deloraine and half at Port Sorell (our next and last Tassie stop).  While we were in Deloraine, I spotted an advertisement for the weekly Steak Night at the local RSL – complete this week with life Country and Western music.  I talked DD into this little diversion (he was a bit bleak there for a couple of days) and booked us a table for the night at the enormous cost of $16 per head for a steak dinner and music – hard to go wrong there!  As the RSL was at the top of a fairly steep hill, DD dropped me off, took the car back to the park and walked back – we walked home afterwards.  I went in alone and my first realisation was that we were the youngest folk there, so far – and it seemed that pretty much everyone was there, who were going to be there.  Hmmm – oh well, I advised the bloke taking the money that my husband would ‘sort him out’ when he arrived – that seemed to take him back a bit – perhaps I should have worded that a little differently!  In due course, my hero arrived and did duly ‘sort out’ the bloke taking the money.  We had a rather large table to ourselves initially, but were joined in due course by the other ‘newies’ in town – a couple in their 50s who had purchased a property out at Golden Valley, had moved in 4 weeks ago and were well on the way to establishing a new truffle farm – he was Rhodesian and she an Aussie from Newcastle – they were an interesting couple and it was good to hear about their new endeavour.

First of The Huge Silk Wall Hangings

In good time we were served with our steak and encouraged to stray to the centre table which was groaning with good tucker provided by the hardworking wives of the RSL members.  The steak was just OK but you certainly couldn't complain about either the price or the quantity of food.  We were pleasantly surprised after the steak to be handed a bowl of Apple crumble, ice-cream and cream as well – marvelous. 

After the tucker was cleared away, the three man group started to play, what a step back in time.  It was quite good country music and they started with a set of waltzes.  There were only 3 couples all night who took to the floor – two of which had obviously been taking dance lessons.  They were all somewhere around our vintage.  It was lovely to watch – one fella, short and rotund, really enjoyed his dancing, and it was a laugh to see the old ‘pump’ going with his hand outstretched with hers enfolded and pumping in time to the music.  The other bloke, I think may have had a back problem (probably a farmer) and danced as tho’ he had the proverbial poker appropriately placed – he still seemed to enjoy himself however.  It was sad to note that these two couples, despite their many forays to the floor, did not once look into their partner’s eyes – so sad – obviously bin’ married a whole heap of years.  These two couples were mates and shared a table, the other couple were, I suspect, outsiders – scandalously, she actually had dressed up for the night and they swung around the floor in a most relaxed manner, ignoring the other dancers and gazing into each other’s eyes, and even occasionally smiling at each other – definitely not ‘the thing’ I suspect.

I came to a rather sad realisation looking around the room that evening – I don’t think I would fit into Deloraine (or probably any other Tassie country town) very well – these ladies all looked to be rather dour – I suspect never to say ‘shit’ for ‘sugar’ as the saying goes, or to dress flamboyantly or do anything else which wasn't proscribed behaviour for well behaved ladies – no, I don’t think I would fit in very well at all.  Oh well..........another pipe dream!!

Deloraine itself, incidentally is a most impressive town – lovely old buildings, wonderful scenery, much of it overlooking the Western Tiers, snow-capped at this time of the year at least and an abundance of ‘Arty-Crafty’ shops and studios.  The Information Centre sports an amazing display called “Yarns Artwork in Silk” – this is an incredible set of 4 huge wall hangings made of silks and other fabrics.  It took many years for the talented local ladies to complete. It depicts the four seasons of the Meander Valley – I will include photos of the hangings and I’m sure you will agree they are wonderful.  The Centre also includes a very good museum, incorporating an old farmhouse etc.  I have to say, we are pretty much ‘over’ the little museums as we have seen so many and they are all essentially much the same.  This one was good as these things go and as it was included in the $6 fee to view the wall hangings, we enjoyed an informative stroll around the place.

The weather that had been threatening came in, in force and the rain it came down.  It came down and it came down – as we were sitting right on the banks of the river we were a little concerned, but decided to keep a ‘weather’ eye on things and be prepared to move should the need arise.  We went to bed on I think it was the Saturday night and during the night when I visited the ladies room at the end of the van, I thought I heard an unusual noise.  At first I thought that Dastardly Douglas had sneakily put the heater on during the night – something I abhor unless it is really necessary, but on checking the heater found it to be turned off.  I mentioned the noise to DD when I returned to bed, but as he couldn't hear it, he discounted it as ‘foolish’ and we both went straight back to sleep.

On waking the next morning, and leaving the van to visit the little house, DD discovered just what I had heard during the night – the river!!  It had risen quite considerably from the previous day – what I had heard during the night was the river roaring past the van.  Hmm, well DD put in his own little measuring device and we started to ‘really’ watch the rising waters.  They continued to rise.  DD went and visited the people over the road who take the money for the park – they advised him that yes, the river did flood quite frequently, but had been limited of late since a dam had been built upstream.  They also told him that usually they would get around 10 hours warning should flooding be imminent.  OK – now we felt a little better.  The bloke at the Visitor’s Centre told us however that there could be a 50/50 chance of the river flooding.  I should say here that the river was to my mind, already flooding, having broken its banks in a few places within the park.  It was quite alarming to stand beside the river (with our ducky mates) and watch large logs sweep past on the very fast current.  The waters were brown and swirling ever closer to the rear of Jezabelle.  We had the car all but hitched up just in case we had to evacuate during the night – fortunately tho’, according to DD’s little measuring stick, there were signs before nightfall of a slight reduction in the height of the water.  At least we were able to get some sleep, although I think both of us had a slightly restless night.

The morning light showed that the waters had not encroached further and we were able to enjoy our last day and night there with some degree of relaxation.  I mentioned our ducky mates; they adopted us on day one, deciding that we were good for a bit of tucker from time to time.  This is the first time I have had experience of Muscovy Ducks – have to say they are enormous ducks and very pushy in the bargain.

Well, it’s been a bit of a marathon, I’m sorry about that, but I did have a lot of ground to cover this time and not a little bit of catch up too.  Until next time when I talk to you from Port Sorell, stay safe, stay friends and stay happy.  Remember life can be just ducky and being mean can lead to a quack up – sorry!! Stephanie.

Raging Meander - The Old Power Station