Saturday, May 15, 2010

AMIABLE ARNO BAY

Fish farms accross the bay
Looking back at Jezabelle from the jetty.

Our 'million dollar' view.


Boardwalk thru' the mangroves.



Sunrise from the van.






Hi folks, how are things with you? We have had a wonderful time here at Arno Bay. We must have kissed a pixie, as we have had marvellous luck – we were given the best bay here. We have uninterrupted views of the bay and the modest waves break not more than 40 metres from the van. The sound of the waves at night, particularly, is just delicious.
Arno Bay is a delightful little spot and the van park here is brilliant. All the sites are grassed and spacious. The amenities are well maintained and plentiful but most importantly the owners, Belinda and Steve are just wonderful. They have a 12 year old son Nathan, who is just a chip off the old block and a refreshing change for a 12 year old boy, and a 2 year old son as well – I know, I know, 12 yo and 2 yo – just don’t go there with Belinda, she is well and truly cognisant of the fact that it is a BIG break – she tells everyone who asks that she could only speak to Steve through gritted teeth for the first two weeks after she found out she was pregnant. The delightful little boy is called Justin, as he was conceived “just in time”! As I said great couple, they do all the right things including a Thursday night ‘sausage sizzle’ and Sunday morning pancakes – all at minimal expense to the traveller and all funds go to the local and very pro-active Progress Association.

Geographically, Arno is also unusual, it is not what you would call a ‘pretty place’ being almost surrounded by mangrove flats. I have included a photo (I hope) of the mangroves. There is a very good boardwalk meandering thru’ the swamp so you can get a very good perspective on the unusual flora and fauna. If I remember correctly, Tumby has a similar set-up. Farm lands (largely wheat and sheep) butt up to the area and Cowell is only around 40 ks to the north if you need significant shopping etc. The town itself boasts a quite good little supermarket, local arts and crafts, a great old pub and cafe-come general stop shop. The cafe has a special they are famous for, called the Arno Burger – literally as big as a dinner plate – we are about to sample one between us for lunch today. The pub is a casual stroll from the park and runs a ‘Schnitzel Night’ on Wednesday evenings – heaps of different schnitzels (including a squid schnitzel) with a good range of toppings and great salads all for a mere $8 each. Sunday at the pub is ‘jug day’ – jugs for $11 and I suspect TBBITW just might force himself to try that out today as well.
There are sufficient things to do here to keep you amused for a reasonable period of time. The fishing is good, both from the boardwalk and the jetty. There are a couple of charters operating here as well, and they pretty much promise great catches of both snapper and King George Whiting. Cowell is a short drive as is the country town of Cleve. The coast between Cowell and Arno is interesting and dotted with ‘free parks’.

We have been much struck with the friendliness of the place. Mind you, as I said before, we have the best bay in the park. The fish cleaning table is just in front of us, and that pleases TBBITW enormously, as he has the chance of seeing what people are catching and of grabbing his trusty pole if he sees that the fish are biting. To access the jetty from the park, people must walk by our van – we have a great little fence between us and the pathway, it is just perfect for people to lean on while they have a chat with our very social Mr Haveachat (alias TBBITW). Truly, I had no idea what a social fella I was living with until we embarked on this odyssey. He went out to the fish cleaning table one day just to shuck some oysters, and no kidding, he had at least 8 people gathered around him just to chat and watch. As I have been ailing a little with the wonderful cold bug that TBBITW kindly passed on to me, I have not been as friendly as I might, and have occasionally looked out the window (while reading an un-puttable down book) to find that he is holding court with a whole collection of passers-by. Another benefit of being situated just in front of the fish-cleaning table is that while watching all the 'charter goers' cleaning their manifold fish the other night, the skipper of the charter boat very kindly gave us a really (no REALLY) good sized pan snapper for absolutely nothing - it went straight into our fry-pan and was absolutely delicious.

As usual, we have made some wonderful new friends here, one enterprising young couple (read around 40 years old) came in towing a van that resembled a space pod. The erstwhile young bloke had built it himself – I was so impressed that I came over all mum-like and started boasting to anyone who would listen as to what a clever bloke he was – and he certainly was. One of the stand-out characters we met here was Jim. Jim for the four footed fans amongst you, is a beautiful border collie cross with attitude. He really probably could benefit from a spot of time on the psych’s couch – he is a tad confused about whether to bite or befriend and when really pressed will do both. Regardless of his rather startling tendencies to taste everyone who comes within a bull’s roar of him, he is a dog with character plus – one of those dogs who talks to his people all the time. We had his people (both delightful too) over for drinkies, and Jim who was very indignant indeed at being left behind, managed to drag his kennel a good part of the way between our vans in order to part of the party. We were sad to see him and his mum and dad leave this morning.

Parting with new-found friends is one of the down-sides of this lifestyle – you no sooner make friends than you seem to be parting with them too. Of course, this is ameliorated somewhat by the magic of emails as we are able to stay in touch with most of our new friends now, while on the road. We don’t often meet people who are not ‘on-line’ while travelling.
My over-riding guilt at leaving my aged mother at home alone, has been accentuated by hearing last night that she is unwell – she has picked up a bad bug which has apparently gone to her chest – as she was supposed to be having small but important procedure on Monday to lift her eye-lid a little, she is very distressed. She was so concerned last night that she was considering calling a locum, but also scared to, as she was afraid he would put her into hospital – the fear then being, what would happen to her mad wombat (read – Sparky the over-fed Staffie) and her house. Of course, these problems could have been over-come, but that wasn’t going to ease her mind at the time. After speaking to her this morning, and after she has had thankfully a good night’s sleep, she now plans to go ahead with the op tomorrow, doubtless telling many porkies to the Dr and nursing staff in the process about her general state of health. I know it is pointless to worry, and being there for her would not really make that much ‘real’ difference in the end, except to make her feel a little happier – but as much as I know that it is very, very hard for her, it does take the edge of our enjoyment a little as well, just worrying about what we should do. Does that sound selfish? I worry that it does.
Ah well, we did know when we left ‘home’ that we would have the odd problem and worry and that things can go pear-shaped, here’s hoping that this is just a small glitch and that things will be OK.

On a much more minor, but practical note, we have a couple of small probs with the van. Poor Jezabelle has sprung a leak, just around the kitchen sky-light. TBBITW thought that he had fixed the matter, but at the last small shower we had here, the drip kept dripping in! He is still engaged in determining where the water is coming from – it’s not a biggie, but does need to be fixed. We had quite a big blow here the other afternoon and Mr “I can do this myself” collapsed the awning, in what sounded to me like gale force winds. I was having a shower at the time and was not outside to assist. Needless to say, we ‘broke a frets’ – his way of saying we broke a thingamajig which we don’t know the proper name of. The handyman that he is (or isn’t) has since applied several glue-like substances which we hope will hold us until we reach Darwin. Once again, not a biggie, but will have to be fixed. In amongst that, his computer has been playing up and the globes in the van keep blowing. Other than that, all is good.

We only intended staying here for 3 days, but due initially to my bug, then to the sheer pleasure of being here, we extended our stay to 14 days. From here we plan to go to Nutbush (a park just out of Whyalla) and then up the centre to Alice and then eventually Darwin. Whether we turn left or right then is in the lap of the gods at this time.

Weather report???! Oh, well the cold has really caught up with us here – we have been spoilt most of the time with crisp evenings and glorious clear blue days, but just lately the nights have been dropping down to around the 4 – 6 degree mark and it is indeed chilly when your feet first hit the floor in the mornings. We have seen a bit of cloud and just a little rain (they need heaps here) and today is just plain gloomy. So onwards and upwards to warmer climes!

Until next time – your long winded friend – Steph
Laugh, love and be happy until next time.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

COUGHIN' AT COFFIN BAY!!

Dolphins play in the surf! Oyster Farms in the Bay
Sorry about the double up - have no idea how to remove one of the photos!!!!

Oyster Farms in the Bay


Picturesque bays in the National Park at Coffin Bay


Mysterious Peaks across the National Parks











Well, hello again, this time from beautiful Coffin Bay on the Eyre Peninsula.

What an absolutely beautiful spot this is. The day we arrived here was wet and very overcast - it was still spellbinding - a little like I imagine Scotland to be - vast expanses of water surrounded by mysterious cloud shrouded hills. Once the weather cleared, the transformation was astounding, lakes full of diamonds reflecting the clear blue skies. Glorious tree covered hills and thick bushland. The place abounds with wild-life, sea bird calls pierce the clear air, kangaroos munch their way thru' the camp at night, emus stroll along the roadside and the sound of the magpies caroling sooths you thru' the day. Oyster farms decorate the huge expanses of water that make up the myriad bays and inlets, and gulls and pelicans find them convenient roosts during low tide.

The caravan park there was spacious and green, all the bays were grassed and the sites were huge. National parks surround the region, and for $8.50 day pass you can travel thru' these unspoiled areas. We generally won't travel on really rough terrain ('cause we're soft!) and so we stuck to the tarmac and better gravel roads - we were still rewarded by some marvelous scenery. We found a breathtaking bay around the corner which was very 'Esperance-esque' - white sandy beaches fronded by aquamarine water. In the waves a pod of dolphins frolicked - a real treat to find. I have included our photo of this event, hopefully if you click on the photo and expand it, you will be able to see the dolphins.

The park is dog friendly and we met many happy tail-waggers there.

We found ourselves parked next to another Supreme, same layout as ours, but not off-road. Great people (of course) and new mates again. This was the first park where we experienced the 'meet again caravan syndrome' - we actually bumped into three different couples we had met at previous parks. It is an interesting phenomenon - when you realise that you have met before, you greet them like long lost friends - it really creates a bond of sorts.

There is plenty to do in this region, fishing of course, oyster eating of course, sight-seeing of course, and visiting pig farms ......of......course..........? Yes, we visited a pig farm - quite by accident - there is a sign indicating an antique shop - it had been recommended - I had been told that there was a nice little cafe there where you could get really nice tucker. We followed the signs thru' some really interesting and lovely countryside, to end up, of all things at a piggery.

A free range piggery at that! Yes, the antique shop was part of the piggery, and the cafe was part of the antique shop - what did they serve there you might ask -

bacon of course. I have a terrible confession to make. Driving into the piggery we passed some very large and fat pigs and some very cute little piglets. Did I let my love of animals get in the way of enjoying a really special 'door stopper' Bacon and egg brekky - absolutely not - it was wonderful! A most unusual experience however. The lady who ran the place seemed very downcast and her demeanour didn't add a great deal to the unusual experience I have to say. She seemed to cheer up after a little while, but didn't come to talk to us. I was a little disappointed as I am sure she would have had an interesting story to tell.

While in CB I had my hair cut - I had to try to have undone, the damage that had been wrought in Esperance. The lass in Esperance did a wonderful job with the colour, but really butchered the cut! The salon at CB proved that old-fashioned hair dressers really do still exist. The cut was excellent, the atmosphere was chatty and we had a good laugh as well - do you remember when a visit to the hairdressers was still fun? This lass was brilliant, if ever you go to the salon in CB be sure to ask for Sylvanna.

We were compelled to go into Port Lincoln for supplies. Due to early onset 'old-timers' by both of us, we had to go in twice, as we forgot stuff the first time. This wasn't a huge problem as PL is only around 40ks from Coffin Bay and a very pleasant drive at that. Port Lincoln is quite a nice town, a little like Albany in WA and super busy. We were shocked, as we have become real country hicks by now and were horrified to find 'traffic lights' and other such city stuff. Parking was a problem and traffic was hectic. We had decided we would not stay in Lincoln as we had been told by several people that the park there was steep and windy. We went and had a look and thought that it looked quite fine. The windy part was probably true, but hey, where on the coast is it not windy? We also drove thru' the national park there (another $8.50) and were very disappointed - it really did nothing for either of us and the roads were less than bad. Of course, each to their own - we have spoken to other people who have camped there and loved it!

The other down side to two visits to Port Lincoln and the supermarket, was that TBBITW caught a cold. Yes folks, a cold, and was he miserable - you will find a little attachment with this entry giving you all the story of the cold.

All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Coffin Bay - as usual, we extended and stayed a little longer than anticipated, just to allow TBBITW to recover enough to pack up and move on to Arno Bay.

Love to all, and stay well. Steph.




"COUGHIN’ BAY"

The bloke started coughin’ at Coffin Bay
Not at first, but on the third day
I’m not feelin’ well, I’m not feelin’ right
He said to me, early that night
Well, he coughed thru’ the night, he coughed thru’ the day
He moaned and he groaned in every way
He wasn’t that flash, he wasn’t that good
I should’ve been sorry I know that I should!
But try as I may and try as I might
I just didn’t appreciate his sorry plight

It’s not a secret that we ladies know
If men had the babies mankind would not grow
The birth rate would drop and the ladies would hear
“Not tonight sweetie, I’ve an ‘eadache I fear”
So it’s hard to feel sorry for the bloke on the bed
When all that he has is a cold in the head.
In his defence he didn’t pike and he didn’t quail
And to drink his quota he didn’t fail.
We still went for drives thru’ roads rough and wide
All round and about the close country-side

And the gallant female that supported him thru’
His darkest day, and who was true blue?
Well I was so happy and I was so gay
That I wasn’t ill in any old way
But life had an irony and twist of its own
And several days later I started to groan
As my breathing tools all started to fail
And just like him, I started to wail
I’m not feelin’ good, I’m not feeling right
Now I couldn’t sleep all thru’ the night

But where was the love, so tender and bright
That should’ve been mine by fairness and right
Oh no, not my bloke, he suddenly found
His cough had come back, so he went to ground
And who soldiered on, thru’ sinus and pain
That’s right girls, the woman again.
He still was not well, he still was not right
He just didn’t sympathise with my sorry plight
Cause I wasn’t coughin’ and spitting like him
My chance of a break was pretty slim.

And the moral to this sorry story so sad,
Well, there just isn’t one so you blokes can be glad
That women are women, and men are just men
And we will look after you again and again.
We’ll bitch and we’ll moan and carry on so
But along with you we always will go
But try to remember that it would be good
If you would look after us just as you should
‘Cause when you are sick and feeling your ills
We are the ones in charge of your pills!