SHADES OF KALBARRI - PART 1

Red Bluff Early Morning

Hello to everyone from a very relaxed and lay-back Kalbarri.  We have decided to stay here in this, one of our favourite places in all of Australia, until early December.  We are expecting to be rather full on once we hit Perth and so are both recuperating from our journey and girding our loins for the onslaught – so to speak!

I am aware that many of you are from WA and subsequently are familiar with this beautiful place, but for the benefit of those who do not know Kalbarri, and for the edification of those of you who do, over the next month I will post a series of blogs dedicated to a pictorial feast of this area.

Waves Pounding The Coastal Gorges

Colours of The Murchison River

To be perfectly honest, we haven’t taken a great many photos this time around (yet), probably because we have taken so many in the past.  It is largely from that hoard that I have taken these photos.  Some of them will not be quite as good as our current stuff as they were taken with less sophisticated cameras, many in fact, were taken on a good old ‘point and click’ type.  Regardless of that, there are some stunning photos amongst them, largely due to the abundant beauty available.

Next time I will tell you a bit more about what we are doing, but this time I thought perhaps I should do something I have never done in the past – give you some factual data about the place.  This information should help to describe Kalbarri.

The Cliffs From The Sea

Nature's Glory

Kalbarri, part of Western Australia’s Coral Coast, is situated some 590 ks north of Perth and some 150 north of Geraldton.  The town is tucked into the bay of the Murchison River as it meets the Indian Ocean.  The river mouth is notoriously dangerous and has seen multiple deaths due to boating accidents over its short history.  One of the thrills of this place is to sit up on the top of the hill overlooking the break, watching the brave and somewhat foolhardy fishermen navigating that rock strewn and frothy maw.  This time around we have not seen much in the way of swell, but trust me, the seas here do get to be very large indeed – there has been many a night here at the Caravan Park when we have gone to sleep to the sound of the waves crashing on the not too distant shore.  The noise often sounds like some demented drummer pounding a huge kettle drum.

Amazing Colours

A More Gentle Mood

The large swell makes this somewhat of a surfing Mecca and it is common to see the huge waves liberally dotted with daring lads (and lassies) swooping down their glassy slopes.  The other day when we did have a good swell coming in, I spotted an anxious hound glued to a rocky outcrop, staring fixedly out to sea where his boss diced with the delicious thrills of that surf.  As the beaches here are laced with huge rocky outcrops and treacherous reefs, the risk of losing life and or limb is relatively strong.

There is history of a sort here.  It is reputed that the first white men to make a permanent landing in Australia came ashore right here at Wittecarra Creek.  These unfortunates were mutineers, Wouter Loos and Jan Pelgroom from the ill-fated Batavia which was wrecked on this coast around 1692.  In 1712 another famous shipwreck, The Zuytdorp also came to grief just north of Kalbarri.  The very treacherous ocean along this stretch of coast is littered with wrecks of early sailing ships.  Theoretically there is a fortune to be found off these shores, the Zuytdorp particularly was reputed to be carrying a fortune.

Despite the early landing of the mutineers (I think their descendants now run the hotels and restaurants here!) the place was not really settled until around the early 1950s.  As late as 1943 this was just a tiny fishing colony comprised largely of crayfishermen.  Slowly people gravitated here to become involved in fishing and mining.  The advent of lead mines around Geraldton drew a few folk to the region.  Until around that time this was simply called The Mouth of the Murchison.  The name Kalbarri is a fairly recent acquisition.  This would make a good question for QI – NOBODY KNOWS ...where the name Kalbarri comes from.  There are thoughts that it may have been a seed, a woody pear or even the name of a prominent aboriginal – as I said, nobody knows!!

Iconic 'Nature's Window'

Murchison Snaking Thru' The Inland Gorges

Aside from the outstanding scenery here, the other big attraction is the weather.  Kalbarri really doesn’t have a winter as we know it.  The winter temperatures run between around 22 – 25 during the day and the rainfall is moderate.  Mind you, when it rains, it really comes down!  Over the years, we have experienced several full on storms - they come in quickly and disappear just as fast, leaving you looking for the number plate of the truck!  Summer time temps run around the low 30s and most days a brisk sea breeze takes the sting out of the heat by the middle of the day.  Evenings are balmy and the stars here are just amazing.

Murchison Mellow In The Early Morning Light

Serenity

Since we arrived two whole weeks ago we have probably averaged around 28 during the day and the nights have been blissful.  We have had a few cloudy days and the wind is moving into a strong summer pattern, but the wind keeps the flies away, so all is good.  Yes, the flies can be a problem if you are spending much time outdoors, but generally, here so close to the coast, they are not too bad.  If you venture inland to the gorges you will definitely need the full mesh covers over your face, otherwise you will be eating the little devils.

A Different Mood

I have no idea what the population is here (surly!?) volume wise, but it is a small place with most of the population gathered into a fairly tight knot right at the mouth of the river.  I am probably being a little unfair here – not everyone who lives here is unfriendly, but it does seem that they are not over-enamoured of tourists.  They love to take our money, but smiles are sometimes a little hard to find.  It is just as well the place is good enough to overlook this rather sad indictment on the locals.

Sparkling Waves In The Early Morning Sunlight

Ancient Rock Face Meets The Ocean

Sun Basking

The ‘town’ boasts two hotels, a couple of cafe/restaurants, chemist, two small supermarkets, butcher, health spa, gift shops and a novelty restaurant.  There are numerous motels, rental units, holiday houses and 3 caravan parks.  We always stay at the old Anchorage CP – right on the bank of the Murchison.  J row is our spot, this elevated site overlooks much of the CP and our gaze just naturally gravitates to the picturesque Murchison River.

I am enthralled by the Murchison. I start my day sipping my morning cup of tea whilst dreamily joining with the river as it travels from the rugged and dry inland gorges, through the spectacular vivid and sculptured rock faces, over cream coloured sand-bars, brushing pretty gums and scrubby bushland as it slides silkily past.  Roos gossip at the edge of the old river which has sustained them and their ancestors seemingly forever. Goannas bask on  sun-baked rocks and in the spring wild-flowers of every hue fringe the banks.

Like A Blue Ribbon Thru' The Bush

Sandy Little Beaches Along The Way

The old river rolls thru’ the harsh landscape like blue satin ribbon, reflecting the azure sky above.  Closer to the ocean she garbs herself in light frothy turquoise, flirting with the pelicans and gulls as she drifts on past us on her way to greet her lover, the sea. 

The mating of the old girl and the ancient ocean is often tumultuous, and the echos of their rapture reverberates thru’ the small colony. Other days they enjoy a lazy coupling, frothy ripples providing the only evidence of their muted passion.

Some Sort of Magic

Ancient Beauty

As the day starts, so it ends, with sundowners sipped slowly as the air cools and river dons her darker gown for the evening.  The past couple of evenings we have been soothed to the strains of a classical Spanish guitar played beautifully by a fellow traveller, and before that another clever fellow eased gentle and soothing strains from a saxophone.  The choral efforts of the local bird-life melded with the music creating a wild yet soothing rhapsody.

If you are the active type, there is plenty to do here.  Surfing, canoeing, bush-walking, ocean gorges, land gorges, quad-biking, scenic flights over the gorges and or the Abrolhos Islands – it’s all available if you are keen.  There is even a visit to the Rainbow Jungle, a marvellous parrot breeding facility if you are a birdy person.  For those of us who come here regularly tho’ there is one overwhelmingly precious activity here – quality relaxation.  We come there to relax – there is no better place to do pretty much nothing.  This is a place to seriously un-wind.  We see people rush in and rush out – what a shame!

Sparkling

Still Sparkling

Well, I hope you have enjoyed your brief visit to Kalbarri – I will publish a few more photos over the next few weeks for those who might be interested.  Until then, take some time out, just for you!  Stephanie
PS  These pics really do benefit from being enlarged a little, do click on the first one to bring them up in good format! S

Feed Me!!

From The Rainbow Jungle Down The Road