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How Far?! |
Whew, that was quick! If ever I needed proof that men and women
come from completely different planets and or communication between the genders
is often oblique and confusing, then these last 7 days have provided the
evidence.
I was under the impression
(obviously an incorrect impression) that we were going to slowly wend our way
back to WA, smelling the wild-flowers along the way. WRONG!!!
As you would know from the
last blog we left Melrose in SA last Friday and I expected to arrive at our destination
in Kalbarri WA tomorrow – that would be eight days of pleasant travel. Guess again Stephanie! We took off from Melrose around 7ish in the
morning, hoping to get a good run up to end up at Penong in the far west of SA
by late afternoon. What happened? Well let me tell you.
FLYING THROUGH THE FLINDERS
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Ummm? |
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And Round Again |
The day dawned perfect for
travel, sunny, mild temperatures and NO WIND!
The wind was the most important motivating factor aided and abetted by
the number of flies chasing us out of Melrose.
We had been told that the flies were even worse further into the
Flinders and any remaining desire to explore those incredible hills further dissipated
with the swarms of the sticky little blighters.
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Sunlit Splendour |
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From Afar |
The journey thru’ the
Flinders was to say the least stunning;
where on our way across in February, the hills had been clothed in gold
velvet, now they were wearing soft greens.
I am a loss to adequately describe the scenery for you and hopefully
some of the photos will help to explain the beauty.
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Towards Port Augusta |
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Not The Nullarbor! |
Zed performed admirably as
we wound up and down thru’ the various hills and dales and thru’ the well known
Horrocks Pass with Jezzy trundling obediently along behind us. We made excellent time and before we knew it
were passing thru’ the now quite pretty Port Augusta. From Port Augusta the countryside starts to
flatten out and some of the beauty dissipates a little heading towards
Ceduna. We passed thru’ Ceduna in
amazingly good time and continued on towards Penong. By the time we reached Penong it was still
only around 3ish in the afternoon and so we made the Big Decision to keep
going. We kept going right up until we
reached the Nullarbor Roadhouse and CP.
You need to remember of course that SA was on daylight savings time and
we were chasing the sun so to speak.
Daylight seemed to go on forever.
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Iron Knob |
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The Lonely Harvest |
NIPPING ACROSS THE
NULLARBOR
By the time we reached the
Nullarbor Road House there was just a little wind, but nothing like we had
previously experienced in this region.
The wind was slightly to the side of us and over our left
shoulders. Not too shabby at all. The CP was predictably dusty and bare, but
with it’s own certain charm. The Road
House is pretty much at the beginning of the true Nullarbor and the countryside
around there stretches out into indistinct distance – it is flat for as far as
the eye can see and the only vegetation is low lying salt bush and tough looking
scrub.
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Desolation |
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And Then Some |
We saw very little
wild-life, only a couple of eagles, 3 dingos and remarkably and fortunately
very little road kill. The traffic was
kind to us and we had absolutely no trouble with anything.
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Hmmm |
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Uh Oh - Some Welcome |
In the morning the winds,
whilst reasonably light were more on our nose, but we took off regardless and
with great optimism for a good day. Only
a few kilometres down the road (oh you know 100 or so) we crossed thru’ the
Bordertown Quarantine Checkpoint.
Another disappointment!
Previously we had been lead to believe, by no less a personage than one
of these checkpoint people that providing fruit and veg were frozen there was
no problem. To this end I had frozen our
lemons and the beautiful little limes that Zan had given us and happily and
trustingly placed them in the freezer.
By the time we reached the checkpoint, they were frozen solid. The very nice and informative lady who
checked us out, informed me that this was incorrect and once again I had to
hand them over. Zan I felt so bad about
your limes – thank goodness we had used some of them – they were absolutely
beautiful by the way!
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Golf Anyone |
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Communication Nullarbor Style |
So ‘lemonless’ and ‘limeless’,
we continued on our now somewhat subdued way.
We crossed the timeline and gained two and a half hours and so it was
only natural that once again we just kept on going. Late afternoon we trundled into Fraser Range
CP, some 100 ks east of Norseman. This
is a great little spot and much ‘improved’ since our last stay some 3 or so
years ago.
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Forever |
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Dad & Children |
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Era's Past at Fraser Range |
GALLOPING THROUGH THE
GOLDFIELDS
Fraser Range is situated at
an historic sheep station and encompasses some of the old original buildings. I didn’t photograph them this time but if you
are really interested you can always slip backwards in time to our first
crossing and have a bit of a gander.
They have there a large
communal fire-pit where most folk gather in the evenings to enjoy a tipple and
pleasant company under the canopy of stars.
They also offer ‘dinner’ for travellers.
The meal was priced at $25 and the evening we were there comprised of
Chicken Casserole and Apricot Tart with cream and ice-cream. You will be amazed to hear we didn’t avail
ourselves of this doubtless delicious repast, having already prepared a meal
previously. Oddly for the lad, he didn’t
bother to join in the group gathered around the fire – I suppose that should
have told me something, but I was just too grateful to really wonder why the
lack of interest.
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To Beautiful Not To Pass On |
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Curious |
As we were only
semi-unpacking, staying hitched up and ready to rock and roll, we took very
little time getting back on the road the next morning. Not before we spotted a Daddy Emu and all his
little (or actually not so little) chicks foraging right next the CP. The park is set in what almost amounts to a
natural amphitheatre at the foot of small hills. In the early morning light it was quite
beautiful.
Off we went again, early
Sunday morning saw us on the road heading towards Norseman. As a child, my paternal grandmother lived in
Norseman and I spent a few very happy holidays with her in that austere and
dusty mining town. As a kid of course, I
saw none of the ugliness; I just thoroughly enjoyed the big swimming pool and
being totally spoiled by my grandma.
Despite my status as an only child, my mother held some very stern
beliefs about the upbringing of children.
Spoiling them was certainly not part of her belief system, so being out
of sight of my very strict mother and with a doting grandma was just wonderful.
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Barren & Salty |
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Sunday Morning Coolgardie |
Anyway I digress, we filled
up with both petrol and breakfast at the Servo in Norseman and continued on our
speedy journey. We passed the old Widgiemooltha
siding where I used to switch from the big Prospector diesel driven train to an
old dog box puffing billy for the last leg of my journey to Norseman. Before we knew it we were passing thru’ the
old gold mining town of Coolgardie.
Trust me the main street of Coolgardie early Sunday morning is pretty
quiet. We topped up the fuel again and
moved right on along. Thru’ Southern
Cross where the giant open cut mine lives (without stopping) and finally into
the outermost reaches of the wheat-belt.
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Roadside Splendour |
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Tassie Doesn't Have The Only Weird Names |
WEAVING THROUGH THE
WHEAT-BELT
Early afternoon saw us pulling
into the wheat-belt town of Merredin. DD
drove us thru’ and around the sleepy town in order to find an IGA where we
managed to purchase some reasonably good fresh produce. The IGA in Merredin was surprisingly good I
have to say. Merredin also brought back
memories for me as I used to run Training Seminars at the motel in that farming
town. The CP was quite good and we had a
drive-thru’ site right near the front fence bordering the Great Eastern
Highway. Other patrons complained in
advance about being kept away by the noise of the semis thundering past during
the night, but I have to say I wasn’t aware of them. The sound of the bloke slumbering next to me
tends to block out most other noises! I
guess too, that I was pretty weary with all that hard work being a
passenger/navigator!
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More Beauty |
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Salt Encroaching |
Monday morning saw us hit
the road once again heading towards the famous (in WA anyway) tiny town of
Meckering, site of the epicentre of our famous (once again in WA) earthquake.
At Meckering we took a northwards turn taking us through the heart of the
wheat-belt and up towards wild-flower country.
We thought we were being smart taking a little used back road, but guess
what. Half the wheat trucks in WA had
the same idea. Well, at least half a
dozen of them! Not usually a problem but
these blokes were haring along in the opposite direction, on very narrow roads,
fully believing the worst they would meet coming the other way would be cars –
not large lumbering caravans. It was a
little squeezy but the first of these truckies contacted us on two-way advising
of his mates following him. We managed
to cope, talking to these blokes where possible and finally reached our
destination of Perenjori in one piece.
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All Done |
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Make Way! |
It was interesting driving
thru’ WA wheat fields having just traversed some of the SA wheat producing
country. I would say at a very
uneducated guess, the SA crops looked to be a little heavier, but both states
are looking pretty good. The big
difference I think is in the sheer size of the farms over here. Traversing the golden paddocks and cresting
the mellow hills you can see forever. It
made my heart sing driving thru’ the wheat – it’s hard to explain I guess,
after the decadent beauty of Tasmania, the verdant countryside in NSW and the
glorious water-colours of SA, just what it is about WA that makes it so very
special to me. I think it is the starker
colours and the immensity of the countryside.
There is a bare and bold beauty here and an inexplicable feeling of
freedom when you are out in this countryside.
It makes you want to spread your wings and take flight! Ah well, perhaps that’s just me.
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Water On Salt |
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More Salt |
We have stayed at the
pretty little Perenjori CP before when chasing wildflowers a couple of years
ago. After that stay, we went home and I
packed mum into the car and brought her back and she and I stayed in one of the
surprisingly well appointed little on-side cabins in the park. Happy/sad memories!
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Only In WA! |
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Bad News Wrapped In Pretty Paper |
Most of the wild-flower
season is now past, but the larger shrubs are still in flower and we were
gifted with some very pretty road-sides as we travelled. The bloke at the CP gave us a mud-map to
Geraldton, having Googled the various options for us and finding that the route
via Geraldton was surprisingly the shorter option. It is an interesting aside here that at both
the servo in Merredin and the CP at Perenjori when we enquired about local
maps, they went instead to either the ‘apps’ on their mobile or the Google
option on their laptops.
We still had some 4oo plus kilometres
to go to reach our destination and so without too much haste, hit the frog on
Tuesday morning, heading towards our much beloved Kalbarri.
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I Could Take Flight! |
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Love It! |
KAPUT AT KALBARRI
For those of you who are
not familiar with Kalbarri, it is a little village, some 150ks north of
Geraldton. The tiny township hugs tight
to the semi-circular river-mouth where the Murchison River meets with the
Indian Ocean. I won’t elaborate at this
point as I want to bring you Kalbarri as we know and love it over the next
couple of weeks. Suffice for now to know
that it is exquisitely beautiful and splendidly decadent insomuch as one can do
practically nothing (if that is one’s want) or if one is adventurous and
active, be as active as you could possibly wish to be. We are currently of the first preference!
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Road To Kalbarri |
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Pink Salt Lakes |
So, from Perenjori we
travelled through some delightful farming country we had not previously seen,
this being a new route for us, eventually arriving (due to a slight altercation
between driver and navigator) at the southern end of Geraldton. Had the driver listened to the navigator, we
would have entered at a slightly more northern point, but, really, it mattered
not. We moved quickly through the port
town of Geraldton, just skimming the periphery really, and popped out on the
road to Carnarvon.
We stopped to fill up with
fuel and brunch at the servo just north of town – bought way too much in the
food department. I have a fondness for
salt and pepper squid and this place sold it by the cup full – brilliant, but
one each was way too much. Feeling
somewhat bloated, we continued north to the tiny town of Northampton where we
took a left turn towards the ocean. Now
we really had the bit between our teeth.
Onwards and upwards, feeling that we were practically there we threaded
our way along the coastal road, past the pink lakes which were totally pink and
much larger than we remembered. The
photos I took from the car window didn’t really come out very well, so we will
have to take a day trip back down there to get some really good shots. These salt lakes are a hue somewhere between
rose pink and soft mauve – stunning!
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Kalbarri Snuggles Along The Murchison |
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To Whet Your Whistle |
Finally the ocean glimpses
became ocean gazes and the town and the river-mouth came into view. Ahhhh, we drove through the little town and
into the entrance to the old Anchorage CP.
We had booked a site, not just any site, but the one that we had always
salivated over, J1! Unbelievably despite
the vast numbers of vans we had seen on the road, obviously travelling down the
west coast and back across the desert divide, the park was almost empty. We have this row almost to ourselves, the
families and all the little children having left for home last week-end. Can we plan or what!!?
That was Tuesday, it is now
Friday and I think in another 2 or so days, the bloke will be back to
normal. He was totally buggered! I don’t really know what particular demon
drove him to make that sort of time – and no it wasn’t me – I would have been happy
to dawdle a little. The flies mind you
were a contributing factor, having been in pretty much swarm proportions everywhere
we stopped from Melrose onwards.
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Anxious |
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'Cause Dad Is Catching Waves |
It has really taken it out
of the lad and he slept for a good part of Wednesday. Mind you..............the bloke can be a tad
obsessive you know, and he had been having problems with his VAST satellite system
and had been unable to make it work since.....well somewhere in NSW I
think. He was starting to get really
steamed about the whole thing and when he tried to set it up here and once
again it just wouldn’t go, he almost lost the plot (having had a tenuous hold
on it in the first place). He found a
bloke here who used to earn a living making these things work and guess what,
even HE couldn’t make it go. Hours were
spent both on Tuesday evening and on Wednesday morning trying to make it
GO. Finally in desperation the lad re-activated
his card and TA-DA! It worked! Thank the
......for that girls. Frankly I had
pretty much had enough of the wretched thing and would have been happy to be ‘televisionless’
forever rather than continue down that frustrating track.
So, we are back in WA, on
the road to sanity recovery, and finally having some lovely down-time. Over the next couple of weeks I won’t post proper
blogs, but rather will simply run some photos of this place and tell you a
little of why we love it so much. Any
antidotes worthy of telling will be posted, but other than that, like us, you
can have a little holiday from all these words. Until then, be kind to each
other, slow down a little and enjoy the journey. Stephanie.
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Jealous? |